Replacing a cracked, sunken drive
When the old slab has broken into pieces, dropped at the edges or tips water toward the garage, patching rarely holds for long. We tear it out and start over from the base.
Old driveway cracked, sinking or pooling water? We dig out, pack the base and pour a new slab thick enough for your vehicles.

Concrete driveway building in Chino Hills means taking out what's there, digging out and packing the ground, then forming, pouring and finishing a new slab for your house. The pour itself goes quickly. Most of the job is the prep before it and the curing after it.
Most calls start with an old driveway that's cracked, sunk at the edges or holding water by the garage. We're based in Chino Hills and work in the cities around it, so if your city isn't listed, call and ask.
The price moves with the size of the driveway, how thick the slab has to be and whether the old concrete comes out first. The schedule turns on the tear-out, any work where the drive meets the street, and the curing time before you drive on it, and your written estimate spells out what's included for your driveway and what isn't.
Your estimate comes in writing and lists what's included and what isn't, so you can hold it up next to anyone else's and know what you're paying for.
I look at your driveway and write the estimate myself. Our crew lead runs the pour, and I stop by while it's going so the work matches what you signed.
I started out writing up driveway quotes for homeowners, then moved onto the crew to learn the work by hand. I opened here in Chino Hills in 2023 knowing both sides.
Before I price a driveway, I ask what you park on it, because a work truck or an RV changes how thick the slab needs to be and how much steel goes in. I'll also tell you straight that concrete cracks, then show you what we do to keep those cracks small.
Most of that happens before the pour. We dig out the topsoil and soft spots and pack the ground underneath by rolling or tamping, because a base that's only raked level settles with the dirt and takes the slab down with it. We set the slope so water runs away from your house instead of toward the garage door. The base is buried by the end of day one, so it's the first thing people want to cut from a budget. I'd take a plain finish over a skimpy base, because you can redo a surface but you can't fix what's under it without tearing the whole thing out.
On pour day we set the rebar, steel bars inside the slab, and pour early so midday heat doesn't leave a weak, dusty top. We cut control joints, grooves that give the slab a planned place to crack, before it picks its own spot. Then we put on a broom finish, the light texture that keeps tires and shoes from slipping, and start curing right away, the wait that lets concrete harden slowly instead of drying out too fast. If you want more than plain gray, stamped concrete can pattern the borders or the whole drive, and if the backyard is next, I can quote concrete patio construction on the same visit.
When the old slab has broken into pieces, dropped at the edges or tips water toward the garage, patching rarely holds for long. We tear it out and start over from the base.
Widening for another car or a side pad can mean adding onto the old slab or replacing it all. I'll tell you which makes sense once I see the old concrete.
If something heavy lives on the driveway, even a trailer that's only home on weekends, mention it at the estimate. It decides the slab and the base, so leaving it out prices the wrong job.
Where your driveway meets the street, the work falls under the city's encroachment permit, and the permit holder has to call 811 at least 48 hours before digging so buried lines get marked.
Send the form and we'll get back to you within one business day to set a time. I come out, look at the driveway, and you get a free written estimate with no obligation to book.
A rough length and width in feet, even paced off, gives us a starting point before the visit. I'll measure it properly when I'm out there.
Tearing out an existing driveway adds work and hauling, so it changes the price. Let us know if there's old concrete, asphalt or pavers to remove first.
I'd rather walk you through what that means at your estimate than spell out promises on a web page, so ask me about it when I'm out there.
These photos show broom finishes, stamped borders and driveway layouts you can point to at your estimate, from plain gray slabs to colored edges.
Here's what Chino Hills homeowners usually ask before a new driveway, from the usual price to permits, cracks and who's allowed to build it.
In nearby San Bernardino, concrete driveway work without reinforcing steel usually runs about $7 to $12 per square foot, and that doesn't include tearing out an old driveway, which can push the per-foot cost up. A thicker slab or added steel changes it too. Your own number comes from my estimate, written up with what's included and what isn't.
One San Bernardino cost guide calls four to five inches standard and says that's usually enough for regular cars. For trucks or RVs, the same guide points to six to eight inches. So tell me about anything heavy you park, and we'll settle the thickness before you sign.
Probably, yes. All concrete tends to crack, and wire mesh or rebar can't stop it. What steel can do, set in the right spot in the slab, is keep those cracks narrow, so ask any contractor where theirs will sit. The base work and joints described above are how we steer the rest.
Usually not a building permit. The city exempts driveways that sit no more than 30 inches above the ground next to them, have no room below and aren't part of an accessible route. Work at the street approach is a separate city permit, covered above. When a job does need a permit, we handle the application and set up the inspections.
A contractor licensed by California for concrete work. The state's C-8 class covers driveways and other flat concrete, and for street-side work under its permit, the city wants a Class A or a C class that fits the work. Unlicensed help is only allowed on jobs under $1,000 that need no permit and have no employees. We're licensed and insured.
We're open until 10 PM on weekdays and from 6 AM on weekends, so call (909) 308-0181 or send the form when it suits you.